Bespoke Engagement Rings: Every Detail Counts

For bespoke engagement rings tailored to your budget and brief, Bear Brooksbank is the go-to jeweller. Our five-step bespoke design process, from first consultation to the final piece, encapsulates high standards of design and craftsmanship. In this quick read, we’ll be breaking down the design process for our bespoke engagement rings, covering diamond shape, metal purity, micro-setting, and more, so that you have a good idea of what to expect when you commission a new family heirloom from Bear Brooksbank.

Bear Brooksbank Bespoke Engagement Rings

Ask any one of our satisfied clients about our design process and they’ll all tell you the same thing. Nothing is chosen in isolation. At Bear Brooksbank, we treat every decision, from diamond cut and shape to metal purity, colour, and lustre, as connected decisions that

The result is a three-month process (six to eight weeks of which are spent on the workbench in Hatton Garden) that blends forensic technical know-how with your unique vision to deliver bespoke engagement rings that exceed expectations.

Step 1: Setting the Stage

To kick things off, we invite our clients for a personal consultation at our Shoreditch Showroom. These consultations are free and can also be hosted via Zoom call upon request. The goal of this initial consultation is to discuss your vision: your thoughts and ideas for your ideal final piece, as well as your deadline and budget. This will help us define the overall brief and guide the design of your bespoke engagement ring.

We also offer a jewellery remodelling service, if you would prefer to revamp a family heirloom and add a modern flourish, or incorporate your own prized stones into a new, bespoke design. Whether you have a fully fleshed-out design in mind or no clue what would work for you, we welcome your contributions to this discussion, and we have a treasure trove of inspiration on offer too. During this consultation, you can take a look at some of our designs for past bespoke projects, which may serve as inspiration.

This first step in the design process is important to us, as it gives us a glimpse into the lives of our clients and their loved ones, and lets us commemorate their milestones with personalised, finely-crafted jewellery pieces. We’ll also ask a few questions regarding your lifestyle, including hobbies, jobs, and how often you plan on wearing your bespoke piece. These details may seem arbitrary, but they’re crucial for steering small design choices.

By matching your lifestyle with materials and setting styles, we can ensure that the final piece fits your finger comfortably on a day-to-day basis. Every decision—from diamond shape to micro-setting style—will echo your taste and routine, resulting in a bespoke engagement ring that is as practical as it is personal.

With that in mind, here are a few more factors we’ll be discussing during your first, free consultation:

Centre Stone Cut

A vital question we like to ask our clients during consultation is this: How do you want the stone to look and feel on your hand? This decision will guide the discussion on potential cuts.

Keep in mind, cut is not the same as shape. ‘Cut’ refers to a stone’s proportions, symmetry, and polish, and governs light return, apparent size, and overall personality. ‘Shape’ simply refers to the stone’s outline, be it round, oval, cushion, marquise, and so on. You can think of ‘cut’ as the performance spec of the stone. A well-cut stone will feature precise angles and facet alignment to allow light to enter, ricochet, and return to the eye in a specific way.

To break it down further, diamond cuts can be divided into two optical families: brilliant cuts (round, oval, cushion, radiant, pear, marquise), and step cuts (emerald, Asscher, baguette). Brilliant cuts are prized for maximising sparkle by returning almost all light that enters the crown through facets arranged in a kaleidoscopic pattern, whereas step cuts are favoured by those looking for a hall-of-mirrors effect with long parallel facets that showcase purity rather than fire.

Metal Purity

The colour stone cut isn’t the only factor we consider when discussing bespoke engagement rings, and this leads us to the metal question: For bespoke engagement rings in the UK, the choice typically boils down to 9-carat gold (37.5 % pure, hallmarked “375”), 18-carat gold (75 % pure, hallmarked “750”) or platinum (95 % pure, hallmarked “950”). In terms of gold, we only make 18-carat pieces when it comes to engagement rings. Modern alloys make both reasonably hard, but 18ct wins on long-term tarnish resistance and its ability to develop a deeper, richer colour. You’ll know it by the buttery yellow or soft grey-white, typically white gold, which is rhodium plated to mimic the look of platinum. Bear Brooksbank strongly prefers to work with platinum over white gold, as it is the superior metal in terms of durability and appearance.

Bear Brooksbank only works with 18-carat gold. The extra gold not only resists oxidation rather well, but it also transcends the label of standard fashion, becoming bespoke fine jewellery that will feel as luxurious in fifty years as it does on the day of proposal.

Micro-Settings and Accent Stones

Accent stones can elevate a bespoke engagement ring, and Bear offers multiple setting styles: shared-claw, channel, pavé, cut-down, rub-over setting, claw setting, flush setting, channel setting, and thread and grain setting. Each brings its own trade-offs in light return and long-term maintenance.

Our clients who opt to go down this route often pair shared-claw shoulders with brilliant-cut centres. This way, the sparkle of the band blends seamlessly with the flashes of the main diamond, translating to one continuous fire line. The trade-off is vigilance, as claws that small need scrutiny every 18-24 months.

For example, one option is the cut-down or “French-set.” The cut-down band removes the outer metal walls below the stones, revealing their lower halves and exuding a decadent vintage feel. Seen from the side, each diamond perches on a fine “seat,” with light flooding through every facet. Clients looking for old-school romance without the bulk of full milgrain edges may favour this option. Remember, this is just one of many available options and routes to take.

Maintenance might be a little more demanding, but the visual payoff is a scalloped sparkle line unmatched by other techniques. Regardless of which option you choose, talking through accent stones is an exciting part of the design process that gets you one step closer to the bespoke engagement ring of your dreams.

Step 2: Design and Stone-Sourcing

Once we’ve got a clear idea of what kind of bespoke engagement ring you’re looking for, we’ll get to work drafting a design, complete with sketches or reference imagery, so you can see a strong visual of the piece in progress. This step is all about fine-tuning ideas and streamlining direction before settling on the perfect stone to fit your piece.

Once you’re satisfied with the design direction, we’ll begin sourcing gemstones—diamonds, coloured stones, or both, if the design calls for it. We work with only the very best diamond and stone dealers in the UK, and every stone is hand-picked and carefully examined to meet your specified preferences.

Here at Bear Brooksbank, we do not work with lab-grown diamonds, and only work with stones sourced by us or stones that belong to a client. Romance and rarity play a big part in our reasoning. After all, formed deep underground up to three billion years ago, natural diamonds boast an emotional gravitas that a CVD diamond simply cannot hope to emulate. Furthermore, unlimited factory output depresses lab-diamond prices, while natural stones, by contrast, hold or appreciate as mine supply dwindles. We source our diamonds from trusted Hatton Garden suppliers who follow the Kimberley Process and ensure they are conflict-free. 

Once we’ve sourced the perfect stones, you’ll be invited back into the studio to review them. This can also be done remotely if you are out of town, but an in-studio examination is recommended. 

During this step of the design process, we will lay out loose stones so you can compare features like apparent spread, bow-tie shadows, and facet patterning. Here, it’s important for us to gauge your reaction. Everything from “too glassy” to “love the sparkle at the corners” is useful feedback that guides the design process. Once a stone is chosen, you can make a full payment for the stone to secure it. 

Step 3: CAD and Resin Prototypes

Next up in the design process is CAD (Computer Aided Design). We’ll present you with a digital mock-up of your engagement ring as well as a 3D prototype. This allows you to get a true sense of proportions and test how the piece feels on your finger. Keep in mind, the design, at this point, is not yet set in stone, and there will still be time for some final adjustments before moving on to the next stage.

This phase is all about testing how the shape feels on your hand, as well as assessing the digital mock-up to make sure you’re fully satisfied with the design draft before it hits the workshop.

Once we’ve teased out the final details and you’ve approved the digital mock-up, we’ll request a 50% deposit for your bespoke engagement ring, and from there, we’ll get started on crafting the final piece.

Step 4: Off to the Workshop

Once you approve the design and prototype, we move to the fourth phase of our bespoke engagement rings process. This is the phase where drafts and mock-ups are transformed into precious metal and stones, and we entrust this phase to a close circle of master craftspeople in Hatton Garden, London’s historic jewellery quarter. Their expertise is an extension of our own, ensuring that every detail of the bespoke engagement ring’s construction is executed flawlessly.

The handcrafting process usually takes six to eight weeks in total, which slots into our typical three-month timeline. However, if you’re operating on a tighter deadline, don’t hesitate to let us know. If the schedule allows it, we will fast-track the build without compromising on quality and craftsmanship.

Step 5: Unveiling the Finished Piece

This is the phase where all of the planning and hard work officially come together to form bespoke engagement rings ready to be presented. Once we’ve given your final piece a thorough once-over and made sure every minute detail is just right, we will invite you to come and collect your bespoke engagement ring from our showroom. If you choose to have a family heirloom remodelled, any items belonging to you that weren’t used in the new piece will be returned to you at the same time.

When you arrive for collection, we’ll make sure you are completely satisfied with every detail of your bespoke engagement ring—and we’ll make sure to offer some care instructions so that you can keep your piece in good condition too. Once we’re sure you’re happy with the piece, the outstanding balance will be settled, and we’ll send you off with your new bespoke jewellery crafted with infinite care and attention to detail.

Keep in mind, bespoke goods from Bear Brooksbank cannot be returned. All of our bespoke engagement rings and jewellery pieces are made to measure to each client’s exact specifications, meaning your bespoke piece will be best suited to you and you alone.